Saturday, February 16, 2008

Post riot partying



So after all the pressure of the week, we had to let loose this weekend! Off we went bowling at the local bowling alley - where you can also enjoy a G&T for $2.00! I'm sure that helped me with my game. It is pretty fun and lots of foreigners seem to gather here for a laugh. I much improved my game, as this time I didn't launch my entire body down the bowling alley. My bruises of a month ago from that trauma have just now disappeared!

Yesterday we rented mountain bikes and went up into the hills for some riding. It was great, and the traffic getting out of the city was pretty light due to the fuel shortage - which means just a little less pollution. We rode up the paved road along the hills way up into the valley. When we got to the top, of course, you have tea. Then we rode down the backside of the mountain on some pretty rocky single track. As we navigated our way through remote villages, the kids seem to pile out of their houses shouting "hello, hello!". They seem entirely confused when we can shout back "Tapaailai casto chha?" Or "How are you doing?" In Nepali. How hilarious to see their reaction.

HIV Clinic in Banepa

This was a most interesting week in Bhaktapur....
On Monday, it took us 4.5 hours, two taxis, one bus, some hiking and plenty of patience to travel a mere 15 kilometers from Kathmandu to Bhaktapur.  There were riots, a fuel shortage, and much of the route was "banda" or closed.  When we finally arrived at the hospital we settled in to start the work week there.  

On Tuesday, we traveled out of the valley to Banepa to this HIV Clinic.  They do great work to teach in the community about safe drug injection, safe sex, and in this particular case, the photo shows me with the trainees for the peer education team.   All who had been in the high risk community themselves, now they are trained on how to reach out to those at risk youth.  They became my "brothers from other mothers" for the day!

On Wednesday, I was trapped in Bhaktapur due to more riots, and eventually managed to get to Kathmandu by evening.  The other volunteer, Ronnie, stayed the week, and also became stuck there due to more riots and enforced curfews.  Apparently on Thursday, a kid murdered another, and when the police didn't do anything, the city exploded.  Tear gas, bullets, bricks, burning of buildings....everything became quite tense.  It has since calmed down, somehow, despite the fuel shortage, Ronnie managed to catch a bus back to Kathmandu for the weekend. It feels like a country that is just hovering on the edge here,  if it is political, environmental, or even just perceived unfair treatment, anything can set off a riot or demonstration.  


Rock climbing at Pasang Lhamu



Here's my first day at the climbing gym!  How fun!  I brought everyone from the basecamp and taught some newbies how to climb.  We had lots of laughs, especially with everyone wearing the harness for the first time.  It does very little to flatter even the most svelte of athletes!   

Pasang Lhamu was the first Nepali woman to climb Everest.  After her third attempt, she died on her descent of Everest in 1993.  This gym was created as a memorial for her heroism.  The founders also work with the community and it does a terrific job to encourage and financially support disadvantaged women to start to climb.  

While I was feeling like I had a little expertise to share with my group, I found out that the guy who was climbing next to me had climbed Everest three times....how humbling!  We all felt a bit daunted by his expertise, but their group was very welcoming. In our Nepali English conversation, along with some wild hand gesturing and lots of laughter, we learned some new techniques from them.  

Monday, February 4, 2008

Rickshaw Trauma!

So, here's something you don't get to write home about very often.  However, before I get into the details, I have to preface the story with some background.   

I was enjoying a day to myself in Thamel this past Sunday.  My first afternoon to myself since I got here.  It was a mixture of errand day and indulgence day for me. After dropping off my laundry in town (1 kilo = 40 rupees, or about 50 cents, special volunteer rate!) I had a delightful massage and rather interesting haircutting experience at one of the local (more upscale) spas.   I say it was an interesting haircut, as my Nepali is still fairly limited, as was her English.  I thought I'd said aliali (meaning a little!), but maybe she thought I said a lot....anyway, it is only hair!  But, the wonderful part of it all, there was indoor heating in this place!   I was bathed in heat the entire time, and while my haircut wasn't probably one of my best ever, I was just enjoying hot water on my head and heat around me!  I may even go back for another haircut there, just to indulge myself in the heat again.   

So anyway, I'd had my blissful spa experience and was wandering around Thamel in my zen like state, about to search out a rooftop patio in the sunshine for a late lunch.  Then along came this rickshaw, out of no where, and he crashed into me!  Now, a moment to describe a rickshaw, or at least this one, well, it is like an adult size tricycle, with a wooden flat platform on the back, designed to carry loads around short distances.  Normally, they have loud squeely horns which they honk to warn you to move out of the way.  Well, either this guy thought he had the clearance, as I was well off the side of the road, or perhaps didn't concern himself with that detail (more likely the case), he crashed into my right hand.  I think he did notice, as he glanced back at me and kept on peddling like a madman.  I thought I'd broken it entirely, but as the searing pain finally settled down, and when I actually didn't pass out right there in the street, a day later, I'm lucky to find it only bruised and swollen.  Well, this is Nepal, and it could have been worse!  And when the heck else in your life can you seek pity from those around you, due to an unfortunate collision with a rickshaw!  I did find my rooftop patio afterward, enjoyed my lunch of chiya (tea), a baguette sandwich, and a tasty pastry.  The tea alone makes everything better.  Then off I went for the rest of the afternoon to shop around the markets of the city.